Issue No. 3
A Parisian museum off the beaten path and literary links for your reading enjoyment
Dear Reader,
Welcome to the third issue of Books & Victorians. A newsletter where I share with you what I’m reading, what I’m listening to and history articles. Today’s edition features the devastating history of a house museum in Paris and a few literary links for your reading pleasure.
One of the hidden gems of Paris is a mansion in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, Musée Nissim de Camondo. It sits on the edge of the elegant Parc Monceau.
When you step into the mansion, it’s almost as if time stood still. Paintings, porcelain and rare 18th century French furniture greet you as you wander from room to room.
But the story of the Musée Nissim de Camondo has roots deeper than 18th century France. It began centuries earlier in the Ottoman Empire.
The Camondo family, of Sephardic Jewish origin, originally hailed from Spain. After the forced expulsion of the Jews, the family made their way to Italy then eventually settled in the Ottoman Empire where they became the official bankers to the Ottoman sultans. So influential was the family that today there is architecture in Istanbul named after the Camondos.
In 1869, Nissim de Camondo (1830-1889) and his wife Elise (1840-1910) relocated to Paris, where Nissim established the Paris branch of the family banking business. He purchased an 18th century mansion on rue Monceau, where he settled with his wife. Together they raised their son Moïse (1860-1935) in this house. Moïse, born in Istanbul, was only nine years old when he accompanied his parents to France. Today rue Monceau is a prestigious residential address. But during Nissim’s day, it was just the street where all the bankers lived.
Through the years, Moïse learned to appreciate art, furniture and other decorative arts. Eventually he began to acquire pieces of historical importance, such as a silver dinner set that once belonged to Empress Catherine of Russia and vases that belonged to Queen Marie-Antoinette.
In 1891 Moïse married Irène Cahen d’Anvers. Irène, who also came from a prominent Jewish family, is the subject in the famous painting, The Little Girl with the Blue Ribbon, by Auguste Renoir. Unfortunately, it was an unhappy union and in 1902 she left Moïse for another man. This caused Irène to lose custody of the children, Nissim and Beatrice.
After the death of his mother, Moïse razed the 18th century house and in 1914 reconstructed a newer mansion, inspired by the style of the Petit Trianon in Versailles. Moïse built this house specifically to house his collection of 18th century decorative arts, tapestries, fine furniture and paintings. He lived in the house quite happily with his two children. By all accounts, the three of them were a loving family.
Moïse was pleased with the home he built. Each room was built with specifications to perfectly house his art and furniture. He entertained often to show off his collection to fellow art lovers. He contributed to the Paris art world and was a respected and equal member of Parisian high society. He was also an important member of the Paris banking world.
Unfortunately, his happiness did not last long. In 1917, his beloved son Nissim died in World War I. This devastated Moïse. He retreated from public life and shuttered himself inside the house. He closed the Paris branch of the family banking business. Moïse entertained sparingly and only when art enthusiasts called on him. Sometimes he hosted dinners for the curators of the Louvre, but his heart remained broken for the rest of his life. He died in 1935.
Because his son passed away and his daughter Beatrice showed no interest in the art collection, Moïse left the house and all its contents to the Decorative Arts Museum in Paris with the stipulation that the house be named after his son, Nissim. The Museum honored his wishes. Musée Nissim de Camondo opened to the public in 1936. Today it is still lovingly cared for by the city of Paris.
Unfortunately, the story doesn’t end here. Only a few years after Moise’s death, France was invaded by Nazi Germany. His daughter Beatrice, her husband, along with their two children, decided to stay. They assumed because they were first and foremost influential French citizens and Jewish second, they’d be spared by the Nazis. This was not the case. All of them were sent to Auschwitz where they perished.
With their deaths, Moïse’s direct lineage ended.
It’s eery when you step through the rooms, it feels as if you are trespassing. The museum is left exactly how Moïse lived in it. The family’s presence is felt in every room. Their books and family pictures are displayed throughout the house. The copper pots used in the kitchen still hang in their spots. It’s almost as if Moïse and his children stepped away for a stroll through Parc Monceau.
Musée Nissim de Camondo is the perfect Parisian museum to visit if you want to admire 18th century art, while staying away from hoards of tourists. But also, the museum is an homage to the memory of a very good family.
If you can’t visit the Museum in person, you can admire the collection virtually.
And on a different note, I’m sharing a few links I found fun or interesting.
Did you hear about the 94-year old grandmother who has been keeping a list of every book she’s ever read since she was 14? (India Times)
How the Victorians Created the Modern English Novel by Katie Lumsden. (Lit Hub)
William Morris wallpaper and fabric design ideas. (House & Garden)
I didn’t know who the “scandalous” Natalie Clifford Barney was until I read this insightful article by Julia Rittenberg. I’m all for women making noise! (Book Riot)
The Dressy Ghosts of Victorian Literature by Matthew Wills. (JSTOR Daily)
Have you heard of The Short Story Project? A group of editors publish long-forgotten or classic short stories. Some stories are available in audio format and you can search for stories by theme or reading time.
Thank you for reading. I hope you have a wonderful new week.
Loving that little writing desk shown in the grand salon photo! Such an interesting history, but sadly blighted so much by the wars 🥲
I’ve heard about this museum by reading Letters to Camondo by Edmund de Waal. We were in Paris in May but we didn’t get the chance to visit this museum. Fingers crossed for next time.